Thursday, November 26, 2009

Off, on, and off the ICW


My friend Dave Wyman is still along with Riggs and I as we wander the waters of eastern North Carolina. At last report we were in pretty Edenton, about 40 miles west of the ICW. We used their pump-out station Monday morning (Dave is studying different pump-out ideas as he will be helping Castine decide how to best provide this service) and left for a 3 hour cruise to Columbia, a very small town located on the south shore of Abermarle Sound. We tied to their free dock which has a nearbybath-house with hot shower. At the adjacent municipal building I signed the visitor book and noted that the previous entry was almost a month old. We are off the beaten path.

Amazingly, Columbia has a winery, which sells a red it calls the 'healthiest wine in the world' because its made from a special grape that has 40 times the antioxidants of regular grapes. I tasted some and decided I'd rather oxidize.

On Tuesday morning we walked an incredible boardwalk that takes you into the cypress swampland that dominates this area. We were sure glad it wasn't mosquito season. Then Spray took us back into Abermarle Sound where we wanted to head east to reconnect with the ICW at the Alligator River. We traveled an extra hour to get there as we had to swing way offshore to skirt a posted military bombing range (don't want to short-cut through there). It was a gray day and as we started south on the Alligator we began losing daylight so we pulled into an inlet at a place called Catfish Point. Very tricky to enter between submerged trees and very isolated in the cypress swamp (no lights, no cell-phone signal, and probably no other people for 20 miles), we used our anchor for the first time in NC. Since the swamp had no solid ground to dinghy to, Riggs had to have an Astroturf night, his first since NJ. He knew just what to do and did it. What a good boat-dog!

Did I say earlier that we were post-mosquitoes? Not here we weren't. We had to batten down the hatches to keep them out. Wednesday morning we got going early. In these protected waters we can cook oatmeal while underway. We continued south on the Alligator River, encountering a tugboat pushing a barge (see above). This rig is called a towboat - go figure. Note that the barge is loaded and so is low in the water, drawing maybe 10 feet while the channel depth is only dredged to 12 feet (sometimes its less) so we understood why the towboat traveled slowly. Dave guesses its hauling coal from near Charleston SC up to some power plant in NC or VA.

From the Alligator River we entered the Alligator-Pungo Canal, which is about 20 miles long and connects the Alligator and Pungo Rivers (duh). It travels through mostly swampland and looks somewhat like the Dismal Swamp Canal, except it is maybe 3 times wider so it can handle towboats, and it has no locks. At our stately 7 knot speed Spray makes a very small wake, as compared to a large planing motoryacht that came up from behind at 20 knots, slowed while it passed, then roared ahead, sending 3 foot waves rolling out into the swamp. Even Riggs was not impressed.

Five miles after exiting the A-P Canal, we reached Bel Haven NC, anchored off a boat ramp, and dinghied ashore (first use of dinghy in NC) to explore. Bel Haven is having tough times, with half the downtown storefronts empty. We later hear that its been this way for years. We did have a nice dinner there. Crabcakes...mmmmm.

Today (Thanksgiving Day) we went south down the Pungo River to where it meets huge Pamlico Sound. Here the ICW continues south but here we again diverted west, 33 miles up the Pamlico River to the large town of Washington NC. This is a beautiful, prosperous looking town that is the seat of Beaufort County and has a huge riverfront bulkhead and park where we tied up for free docking (of course). As its Thanksgiving everything was closed, except for a nearby Mexican bakery (yum), and the fact that the dockmaster was on duty. The downtown is very nice, with some buildings painted in pastel colors. Should make some cool photos.

Today was warm, sunny, and calm. Really beautiful. After exploring downtown we snacked on Mexican pastries, then Dave went to use the hot showers while I played chuckit with Riggs. Many families were walking down the riverfront promenade, holding their bellies and groaning from being so stuffed, and most laughed at Riggs as he zipped after his tennis ball. As the sun went down I started cooking our Thanksgiving feast. One of my 'one-pot-wonders' where potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, and broccoli are all sauteed in olive oil in one pan. Its mostly root vegetables, as are traditional Thanksgiving sides, so except for lacking a big dead bird it was close to the real thing. We liked it, and clean-up was easy!

For tomorrow, plan A is to head back east to the town of Bath NC, but there is a gale warning posted, so we may hang here in Washington for another day. Not a bad place to hang.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

No anchor needed in NC?


We've been in NC since Thursday afternoon and have yet to use our anchor, nor have we had to pay for marina space. This state (at least this part of it) really welcomes cruisers.

Thursday we had a great cruise down the Dismal Swamp Canal, which is narrow (trees hang over on both sides), and perfectly straight for maybe 12 miles, bends left by 30 degrees and is then straight for another 8 miles. Just after the bend we crossed from VA into NC and shortly tied to a bulkhead at the Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center, just in time for lunch. They allow free overnight tie-up for as many boats as will fit. That night there were 4 sailboats and us. We had the afternoon to kill, so we crossed the canal on a unique floating drawbridge and walked some in the Dismal Swamp. Very beautiful but apparently loaded with ticks in summer. Dave and Riggs then rested on Spray while I checked out a bicycle from the visitors center (free of course so I didn't complain that it was a womans bike). They have a paved bike path that follows the canal for 3 miles so I rode down and back.

Friday we filled Spray's water tank, had a nice breakfast, played chuck-it with Riggs, and left at 9:45 in hopes to reach the southern lock to exit the canal at the 11:00 lock-through . We had a 1+ knot following current so we occasionally just drifted so as to not arrive too early. After the lock-through (Riggs had a lock-side romance with a little poodle - ooh la la!) we continued through another straight section (Turner's Cut) and then joined the Pasquotank River. This section meandered through cypress swamp and was just gorgeous. Eventually we reached Elizabeth City, which many cruisers call the friendliest town on the ICW (we can't argue it) and pulled into one of their 14 free slips at about 2 pm.

To learn how Elizabeth City (pop ~ 20,000) became the 'Harbor of Hospitality' (see photo above) read this:

Sure enough, after some exploration around downtown we attended the wine & cheese cruisers reception complete with a booster spiel by the Mayor. I was a little surprised when the Mayor began by giving a special welcome to Spray and its first mate Riggs. It turns out that when we were holed up in Atlantic City NJ for 4 days the Mayor was on another boat at the same anchorage and had dinghied by for some chat and as usual Riggs made an impression.

E.C. could have been the model for Mayberry. I kept looking for Sheriff Andy Taylor. We stayed for two nights and did our part to reward their welcome by eating in 4 restaurants, buying groceries, and touring their superb 'Museum of the Abemarle'. They provide free WiFi to the boat slips and have a webcam
aimed at the boats so Dave and I had silly fun waving at our spouses while they got on- line and watched us.

We pulled out of our slip at dawn today and continued down the Pasquotank, which is quite wide below E.C., to reach huge Abemarle Sound, a notoriously rough body of water. The ICW cuts south across the sound, but we didn't. Back when we were at the Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center, they gave us a great map of the eastern half of NC, which has an incredible number of waterways. We both thought it would be a neat area to explore so as we entered Abemarle Sound we hung a hard right turn and proceeded west for 40 miles to arrive in Edentown NC after 7 hrs total travel time today (we call this a long day). Some call Edentown the prettiest town in the South. They too have free docking for cruisers, and since they are off the ICW and its post-season we are the only visiting boat here. They also have HOT SHOWERS for our use. The town itself reminds me somewhat of Castine, very historic with beautiful old homes and a great waterfront although they do have more downtown business and restaurants.

Its Sunday so the town is quiet. Tomorrow they are predicting rain and wind so we might stay put here. If we do move it will probably be to nearby Columbia NC where they have .... free docking (of course). We'll keep ya posted.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Change of crew, Change of State

We resume the narrative last Friday where Spray and crew are hunkered down in St Michaels MD while ex-hurricane Ida blows through. Sheila gets a ride to Chestertown to retrieve her car and now we can run errands such as laundramat, groceries, etc. For lunch brave Sheila tackles the steamed crab experience (above) and in the end its Sheila 6, crabs 0. She says crabs are way more work then lobsters. Lazy Bill has a crab cake (which was great!).

Saturday morning is sad as Sheila and Katie depart for parts north and Spray heads out into a choppy Chesapeake, headed south towards Solomons MD and getting half way there to anchor in Dun Cove, just north of Tilghman Island. Sunday we make for Solomons and arrive at that busy boating hub (Spray's first stop on the west side of the Ches.) at 2 pm to anchor off a large marina. We are here to pick up good friend Dave Wyman, a neighbor from Castine and lifelong boating professional (Dave performed the survey of Spray before purchase). He meets me at the marina at 5 pm with his daughter and son-inlaw (who live nearby) and we all head to a Wal Mart to pick up some oil for Spray, then off to a great restaurant for dinner. Dave moves his gear onto Spray and sleeps aboard so we can get an early start Monday morning.

Our goal is to speed south (at 7 knots) to Norfolk VA where we will enter the ICW. Monday is a beautiful, warm, calm day and we bask on the Flying Bridge as we make about 45 miles, crossing into VA, to an inlet named Dividing Creek, which has a large beach for a walk and Riggs-play. Its a nice calm night but the next morning there was a gentle train of waves in the creek. Once we head back out into the bay we find their source: 3' waves on our beam that yield a very rocky ride south. We pull into the Back River about 10 miles above Norfolk, anchoring right off Langley AFB. It was a fairly windy night and Spray pitched some, but we were beat and slept well.

Today was a day of amazing variety and surprise. We got started early and headed out into a still choppy bay. Had a rocky ride for an hour or so before pulling into Hampton Roads where you enter Norfolk Harbor and where several rivers meet. I'm glad Dave was aboard and that he used to live nearby and so knows the area well. It was crazy with large shipping traffic to avoid, and the huge Navy facilities with all their activities including helicopters zipping overhead and patrol boats zooming by. Dave worked with the Navy for several years and was a good tour guide, identifying each ship type and how they work. We turned south into the Elizabeth River, next to downtown Norfolk and past ICW mile mark 0 at hospital point. We are in the ICW!

We passed through through two open bridges, wait at a RR drawbridge that ignores our radio request but does open after a horn toot, and then arrive at the Gilmerton drawbridges, a road bridge and parallel RR bridge. Two sailboats are waiting there and apparently the RR bridge is stuck down. We end up waiting 2 hours (with eventually 7 other boats and a tug&barge) for the #$%& RR bridge to open, which it finally does. Its only another mile or so before we (and the 2 sailboats just mentioned) turn right into Deep Creek, which shortly leads us to the lock that is the northern end of the Dismal Swamp Canal (first dug in the 1760's by slaves owned by G. Washington). We had hoped to be in time to drive most of the way down the canal but instead we make the last lock-through of the day (lifting Spray and contents by about 8 feet) and are now tied to a dock just past the lock. The fellow operating the lock was a hoot - very helpful and informative and nice enough to play us a tune on his conch shell while Riggs and another boater's dog played with his dog 'U-turn'.

This Dismal Swamp is interesting. The lock operator says the apparent isolation is a facade, that we are actually in the middle of the 2nd biggest population center in VA. Sure enough we can walk 1/4 mile to a very busy road, struggle across a couple intersections, and have dinner at a mexican restaurant (with the occupants of the 2 sailboats).

Tomorrow we'll have a leisurely morning as we can't proceed until a nearby drawbridge opens at 9 am. The we'll cruise at 5 knots max (which is fine with Spray) for 17 miles down the canal (mostly straight as an arrow) and at mid day we'll stop at the canal visitor center, just into NC. We may stay the night there, or continue south out of the canal (a lock will lower us by 8 feet) and head to Elizabeth City, which is reported to be the most welcoming stop on the ICW. Stay tuned to see how that goes.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

So happy together


Sheila and Katie arrived in Chestertown right on time at 2 pm last Wednesday. It was a great reunion and they moved right aboard Spray. We spent a nice night at anchor in the Chester River. Thursday morning we had coffee & pastries in town, did a load of laundry, filled Spray's fuel and water tanks, and headed downriver, leaving Sheila's car at the Chestertown Marina. It was a nice cruise to Queenstown, where I had visited before. We walked the town and played ball on the nearby sand spit.

Friday we woke to a strong NW wind and it looked nasty enough on the bay to convince us to stay another night in Queenstown. We did an extended town walk, including through some farm country, and played more beach-ball. The wind that kept us pinned down brought out 3 young guys with huge kites and boogie-boards. They use the kites to pull themselves across the water, and sometimes way up into the air!

Saturday morning we woke to 30 degrees and Bill actually ran the propane heater for a while. We left Queenstown and turned south through the Kent Island Narrows. After a couple of bouncy hours we dropped anchor at St Michaels MD, a pretty town that is home of the Chesapeake Maritime Museum, which was hosting an Oyster Festival. The town was full of touristos, sucking down raw oysters left and right (often followed by a shot of vodka). We found a great field to play chuck-it, exhausted the dogs (yeah, right), and hit the town for a nice dinner.

Sunday morning was beautiful and warm, and we sunned ourselves aboard Spray (see above) while we listened to the church bells of St Michaels. After some dog play Sheila and Bill enjoyed a nice harborside lunch, and then went beer and wine tasting. Since the oyster festival was over, the town was much quieter. We had reserved a slip at Higgins Boatyard for Sunday night (they were full Sat.) so we moved Spray over to the slip, then we stocked up on groceries and fixed a nice supper aboard Spray, and finished with a DVD movie.

Monday we had breakfast in town, walked a mile or so to a hardware store, then back to Spray where Bill did some scrub-down work while Sheila hit some stores. At noon we left St. Michaels for a short and sunny cruise north into the Wye River, anchoring in Shaw Bay which has a decent beach. Tuesday we woke to a calm, warm, but cloudy day and toured the Wye East River at a mellow 5 knots before entering Dividing Creek for an anchorage. Dividing Creek almost cuts Wye Island in half (hence the name) but is surrounded by large trees and offers great protection. We dinghied to shore to find two state-maintained group campsites, which were perfect for chuck-it time. We then hiked a nature trail through a segment of old-growth forest (some awesome trees). Supper on Spray (did I mention that the caliber of food aboard Spray was several notches improved with Sheila aboard?), then a John Wayne movie.

Wednesday was still cloudy, and now somewhat windy, as apparently the remains of former hurricane Ida was moving in. We cruised the Wye West River a bit, and anchored for lunch near the bridge that connects Wye Island to the mainland. The radio was giving scary forecasts for overnight (NE winds gusting to 50 mph) so we decided to move to as protected an anchorage as possible, thus it was back to Dividing Creek for us. It started raining and the wind did blow, but we were snug and safe at our anchorage. Our rain gear was put to good use for dog-on-shore trips.

The original plan for today was to head back to Chestertown, both to run a few errands and to get Sheila (and Katie) to her car for their Saturday departure. But the 30-50 knot NE winds prompted a plan B, which was to return to the slip in St Michaels, have a nice lunch in a heated restaurant, and beg a ride for Sheila to get to Chestertown to pick up her car. The weather is now truly nasty (we're in the best protected corner of the harbor and are still bouncing some) and is expected to remain so at least into Saturday. So we'll hunker down, try a few more restaurants, revisit the brewery and winery, and finally put Sheila and Katie on the road to Maine on Saturday morning. I will then head south to Solomons MD to meet up with good friend David Wyman on Monday. He will be aboard for ICW cruising for nearly 2 weeks!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Killing Time on the Chester



DeRigging Days here in Chestertown MD was much fun. We had (unknowingly) arrived at the very start of the 4 day festival last Thursday, and got to see maybe eight tall ships arrive. The ships were from Maryland and nearby states such as VA and NJ. On Friday more spectator craft arrived, and our empty anchorage started to fill up. Friday evening there were fireworks (see above) which Riggs and I watched from Spray (amazingly, Riggs enjoyed them). By Saturday things were hopping here even though the weather was so-so.

We had seen enough, and Spray's battery was in need of charging, so on Saturday afternoon we headed back downriver. But not for good, because Sheila was able to break free from work ,and mother-support, schedules to drive down (with Katie-Bopp of course) for some cruising. They'll be arriving tomorrow and we will meet here in Chestertown (I want her to see this sweet town), where Spray is once again anchored.

Between Saturday and today, Riggs and I had 3 days to kill so we gunkholed around the lower Chester River, staying at anchorages in the offshoot Corsica River (Sat. night), nearby Reeds Creek (Sun. Night), and Grays Inn Creek (Mon. night). Each had their own beauty. This morning we woke to calm misty beauty in Grays Inn Creek (below) and began our leisurely return upriver to Chestertown.

Of course I'm excited to be seeing Sheila tomorrow, and Riggs will be VERY excited to see Katie-Bopp. The four of us will be cruising the mid-Cesapeake area for maybe nine days, returning here to Chestertown on about Nov 14.