Thursday, January 28, 2010

The Good Life

Bev, Riggs, and I are down in the Keys now, anchored in Boot Key Harbor in the town of Marathon, on Vaca Key, and life is good. We've had great weather, following winds, and friendly harbors.

Yesterday we left John Pennekamp State Park on Key Largo (ICW mile 1140) and cruised down the outside of the Keys, past Plantation Key to Snake Creek, where we could cut across to the inside. It was a tight fit, and we saw truly scary numbers on the depth sounder as we crossed through, and still as we traveled on the inside in like 5 feet of water (Spray draws 4 ft). Eventually we reached Islamorada (mile 1160) and found the renowned restaurant Loreleis. We anchored offshore in somewhat exposed conditions and the 3 of us dinghied in for a late lunch. Our cruising guide had said the Loreleis allowed dogs but when we arrived there were signs saying no dogs. It turns out that one of their managers doesn't like dogs (can you imagine?). With some pleading and a few tears we were allowed to stay with Riggs and had a great (and huge) lunch. The restaurant's resident cat came by to torture Riggs, and everybody was happy.

Back on Spray we dozed for awhile (see above where Bev assumes her yoga pose 'Snorked Off Swan') and had a light supper. We cruised on this morning, first on the inside, then crossing through 'Channel Five' to the outside, where we found some small swells to keep things rocking.

There are 2 entrances to Boot Key Harbor (ICW mile 1195), the main one is from the west, but there is a shallow-draft option in from the south through Sister Creek, and we squeezed into the latter, winding through the mangroves. Boot Key Harbor is a very protected lagoon where many cruisers spend most of the winter. The city of Marathon maintains 226 moorings here, and they were all filled when we pulled in. What an impressive grouping of vessels! There is anchorage space too which was pretty full but we squeezed ourselves in and dropped the hook. After lunch (grilled cheese) we dropped a 2nd anchor to hold a tighter position, then dinghied ashore to the largest dinghy dock setup I've ever seen, and registered at the city marina. This is quite an operation, with a huge cruiser's lounge, bathroom/shower facility, pumpouts, etc.

We walked Riggs through a city park, then up busy Route 1 to a supermarket where we bought a few items for tonight's supper.

One of the aspects of Bev's visit I've most looked forward to has been her cooking skills. It turns out that I cooked the first few meals while she was aboard, both to show off my meager skills and to let her get acquainted with Spray's galley. Bev cooked us a great breakfast yesterday but tonight she showed her stuff: First frying some thin-sliced potatoes, then some broccoli and onions, capping things with sauteed tilapia filets with mustard sauce. What a fantastic meal!

So we arise at daylight, I make a quick run to shore with Riggs, then we share a nice breakfast and get underway. We spend the day on the flying bridge, watching the Keys slide by, in awe of the turquoise waters. Finally we snake our way into an anchorage, explore the shoreside ammenities, and return to Spray for a great meal and beautiful sunset. What more could one ask for?

The picture below shows just some of the anchor lights here in Boot Key harbor.





Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Running on the OUTSIDE

So good friend Bev arrived in Coconut Grove, right on time Sunday afternoon, and her welcome aboard Spray was a trial-by-fire, as I had moved Spray to one of Dinner Key Marina's moorings, which are somewhat exposed to waves, and the winds were strong out of the south. So we had a bouncy dinghy ride to Spray, and then Bev's first night aboard was a little bouncy and full of odd splashy and creaky sounds. We had a nice supper Sunday at 'Scotties' on the waterfront (they allow well behaved dogs with responsible owner - Riggs and I faked it).

More trials on Monday. Its still windy and squalls are threatened. First, Bev and I go to a high-end grocery and load up on fancy foods. Next we drop off the mooring and tie up to a slip to fill the water tank and pump out the holding tank, experiences Bev didn't want to miss. Next we motor over to a fuel dock and fill Spray's tanks (80 gallons diesel @ $2.75). Our computer is on-line showing a radar image of the approaching squall line, and the fuel attendant had heard that tornados were possible, and since they're not busy we're welcome to stay tied to the fuel dock for a while. The fuel dock happens to be 5 steps from - wait for it - 'SCOTTIES', and its lunch time so what better way for the 3 of us to ride out the storm. It does rain and blow some as we dine but its not so bad.

After lunch we head across Biscayne Bay on a short but bouncy run to No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne (ICW mile 1096). Its a very well protected harbor and we drop anchor, have a nice long walk around Bill Baggs State Park, then supper aboard Spray. A very calm night.

Today we wake to wall-wall sun and moderate winds from the North. We indulge in a frittata for breakfast, then head down Biscayne Bay, with 2' following seas, which Spray handles comfortably. Its really glorious travel. Our goal today was John Pennekamp State Park on Key Largo (ICW mile 1140), a 44 mile run. We were 1/3 way through it, at the south end of Biscayne Bay, and I'm looking at charts trying to figure how to enter the park, and it dawns on me that while we are heading down the ICW on the INSIDE of the Keys, the park is on the OUTSIDE!! So I call the park and get advice: we must go through Caesar Creek, at the bottom of Elliot Key, to cross to the outside, then cruise SW for 20 miles to the park. So that's what we did.

Bev's an able helmsperson and did 80% of the driving today, and so it was she that got to plow Spray over a 3' deep sandbar to enter Caesar Creek, which was kind of exciting. The run down the outside, between 1 & 2 miles from shore, in 10-12 ft of turquoise water, was like a dream - just spectacular. After a couple hours we were off of central Key Largo, turning into South Sound Creek and winding a mile through the mangroves to this great park (see below). We're at a slip at the park marina, with shore power, hot showers, and everything. Its really nice here.

Tomorrow: probably an easy 20 mile run to Islamorada, on Upper Matacumbe Key. There's a waterfront restaurant there, Lorelei's, that allows well behaved dogs. We'll fake it again.


Sunday, January 24, 2010

Miami and Biscayne Bay

After the big Florida cold spell the pendulum has swung, and its been generally hot and humid for the past several days, with daytime highs about 80 and nighttime lows about 70. I don't even like to look at my beloved sleeping bag now.

Last Tuesday we left our anchorage up the Middle River in Fort Lauderdale (ICW mile 1063) and continued south. One weird thing about the Middle River: the cold period had caused a major die-off of iguanas, and there were several dead ones bobbing around in the water, and several more on the ground at a park we went to. Iguanas are not native here and these are the descendants of released pets, and are (were?) an unchecked invasive species, so everyone considers the die-off a good thing, but it was kind of creepy. Some of them were 4 feet long!

Anyhow, on Tuesday we cruised through very built-up Hollywood and Hallandale, dealing with several drawbridges, and reached North Miami, turning off the ICW at mile 1080 to enter the large anchorage at University Cove, which has a big Florida International University (FIU) campus on one side, and a day-use park on the other. This was a great anchorage, well protected and an oasis in the concrete jungle.

On Wednesday we cruised down the ICW with downtown Miami on our starboard (see photo above), and Miami Beach to port, passing Miami Government Cut, where the cruise ships dock, then entering wide Biscayne Bay. Our goal for the night was 'No Name Harbor' (mile 1096), which is part of Bill Baggs State Park on the south end of Key Biscayne. On the way in we passed Bebe Rebozo's old house (there's some trivia for ya). Anyhow, No Name Harbor was just great, small and protected, with a white sand bottom yielding turquoise water (see photo below), and a huge park for Riggs and I to explore. We anchored with maybe a dozen other boats and stayed 2 nights.

Friday we had a date to keep, so we cruised straight across to the west side of Biscayne Bay, to Dinner Key, which is in the Coconut Grove section of Miami. This is a busy place with several Marinas, all expensive, so we snuck in and anchored in a little pocket among some of the local boat bums. Like the boat bums we tied our dinghy to a railing in front of the fancy Chart House restaurant and climbed up and over the rail. It must be interesting for the diners there enjoying the expensive view, when a small dog is tossed over the rail to be followed by a grizzled vagabond.

Our date was to meet friends Karen and Jay, who I first met at new-years 2000 on a little island named Lulu off SW FLA near Port Everglades. They both teach at a fancy private high school in Coconut Grove. Riggs and I walked towards their school and met Jay half-way there. After a campus tour (we had to sneak Riggs in as a potential student), we went to a waterfront bar/restaurant named Scotties (who amazingly allowed Riggs in) and had a few beers with Spray bobbing 100 yards away. Then we went to K&J's lovely house for a great feast of a dinner, including probably the best and biggest BBQ shrimp I've ever had, and I met their 12 year old son (and trumpet player) Daniel. I also did a couple of loads of laundry there. Riggs loved their lush yard and pool and 3 cats, and we were so stuffed and mellow that when they offered us a bed for the night, we had no argument. A real bed for the first time in 3 1/2 months! Thank you Karen and Jay for the great hospitality!

Late yesterday morning Riggs and I were back aboard Spray and hung out. We did go ashore to walk down to the local dog park, which Riggs enjoyed. Its still warm, but some fronts are passing through, so its somewhat cloudy and windy.

Today we have another big date, as Castine friend Bev Bishop flies in to join us for a week+ cruising down the Keys. She'll arrive about 4 pm so I've got some boat cleaning to do today (we've been living like bachelors), plus I'll move Spray to one of Dinner Key Marina's rental moorings, which will allow us to use their showers, and fill the water tank and pump-out the holding tank. Tomorrow, if its not too windy, the 3 of us will head down the Keys. I'm thinking of following Jay's advice and heading for Boca Chita Key for the first night.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Too early for Spring Break


Hello from Fort Lauderdale. This is definitely not Kansas, nor Maine. This is the most densely populated area of Florida, and there are A LOT of boaters here. Jeff Siegel tells me to expect less-than-friendly encounters around here, and I imagine that constant exposure to this many people, and this many boaters, could sour anyone on both.

Sunday morning we left our protected anchorage in North Palm Beach, pulling up anchor in a warm rain shower. We traveled a few miles, pulling off the ICW into the North Lake Worth anchorage (ICW mile 1014) where we dropped the hook for only an hour while I dinghied ashore to pick up some groceries. Then we continued south, through on-and-off rain, for 17 miles, to the Lantana anchorage near South Palm Beach (mile 1031). It was a so-so anchorage, near a park and a noisy restaurant, but we could land Riggs ashore. That's getting to be a challenge around here.

Today was absolutely gorgeous, sunny and in the 70's, so we spent the day on the Flying Bridge. Riggs spent much time watching homes glide by (some with dogs!), but occasionally ducks under the dash to catch some z's (see below). We were in the 'concrete canyon' area, where the ICW is bordered on both sides by vertical concrete seawalls, and every power-boat wake bounces from side to side and seems to never dissipate. Its good that this was not a weekend day. There were enough boats as it was.

We had several drawbridges to deal with. They open on various schedules: some on the hour and half hour, some at quarter past and quarter till, some every 20 minutes, and some every 15 minutes. If you maintain about 6 knots it all works like a well-timed series of stop-lights, and you don't have too wait too long for any one bridge.

We turned off the ICW in Fort Lauderdale at mile 1063, and headed up the Middle River for a half-mile, and again dropped anchor with a dozen or more beautiful homes looking at us. If we dinghy farther up river, under a low bridge, there is a park for Riggs.

A comment about speed limits: Around here you see many signs spelling out many rules, most apparently based on the prevalence of Manatees. Some areas are minimum speed - no wake, others are 25-35 mph max, and here in this anchorage, its minimum speed, unless you are pulling waterskiers. Go figure.

Tomorrow we will hit Miami!

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Creeping to Miami


We've been slowly moving south, and are now anchored in North Palm Beach, a mere 75 miles from Miami Beach. We have a rendevous there scheduled for Sunday Jan 24, when we pick up good friend Bev Bishop for a week+ cruise down to Key West.

Good news! The great Florida Freeze has ended! For the past 2 nights, with temps in the 60's, we haven't broken out the sleeping bag. Today we may see 80 degrees. One sad effect of the cold spell has been the killing of many fish in the shallower sections of the local waterways, where water temps have dropped below 50 degrees. The huge local population of vultures (see above) have benefited from this.

We left the mooring field in Stuart this past Tuesday, after 5 nights there. The batteries needed charging, so we made a slow run (1100 rpm which yields maybe 5 knots) about 5 miles up the north fork of the St Lucie River. It turns out that Spray's alternator charges the battery at the same rate whether we go slow or 'less slow'. We anchored in Kitching Cove, pretty close to a Club Med resort. It was still cold then (50s day, 30s night), so the Club Med wasn't doing any apparent business. Kitching Cove has expensive homes to the east and mangroves to the west and I was wondering if I would be able to find a place to land Riggs to 'empty the dog'. We dinghied a half mile or so north up a creek, which was loaded with wading birds, and found a small beach with a couple of benches, so we landed there. It turns out it was on the 'nature path' of a new subdivision. Roads were in, lots were prepped, but no houses. Maybe a victim of the Florida real estate bust. Anyhow, it made a great place to walk Riggs.

Wednesday we slowly motored back down the St Lucie, continuing down the ICW to a wide spot called Peck Lake (ICW mile 992) where we anchored for 2 nights. The barrier island there is part of Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge and its a very short walk from the ICW side to the Atlantic beach (see below). The beach is quite empty and remote, yet monitored by the authorities by helicopter flyovers and by a remote TV camera that you can see on the post to the left (Big Brother). Technically, Riggs is not allowed on the beach, so we tried to hide him from the camera.

Peck Lake was a nice place to kill time. The only down side was wakes from passing boats moving up/down the ICW, but these didn't occur at night. It was while we stayed here that the freeze broke, and we enjoyed real Florida weather.

Yesterday we pulled anchor and cruised 20 miles south through Hobe Sound to North Palm Beach (mile 1013). Quite a difference from Peck Lake as this is a very densely populated area, with mansions crammed together along the ICW. It was getting windy and the weather report for the weekend calls for somewhat strong southerlies, so rather than head for the standard anchorage (North Lake Worth), we turned off the ICW into one of these neighborhoods of nice homes all connected to a series of canals, and each with a dock and boat or two. The canals are too narrow to anchor in but this one has a couple of cul-de-sacs, and we are anchored in one of those, in about 5 feet of water (Spray draws almost 4 feet). Its very protected, but we've got about a dozen homes looking right at us. There's a boat ramp about 1/2 mile further down the canal, with a park, so Riggs is happy.

We're gonna hang here until tomorrow, and let the winds quiet down, before continuing towards Miami. Jeff Siegel says there aren't many scenic, dog friendly anchorages between here and there and recommends going past Miami to explore Biscayne Bay, then returning to Miami. Sounds like a good idea!

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Hanging out in the mooring field


Riggs and I are killing time, and trying not to freeze.

After 4 enjoyable nights in Vero Beach (ICW mile 952), on Wednesday we cruised 25 miles south to the St. Lucie Inlet, where the St Lucie River meets the Atlantic, thus recharging our batteries and getting us ever closer to our next rendevous, which is to meet friend Bev Bishop in Miami on Jan 24 or so. But that's two weeks away, and Miami is only 3 days cruise distance, so we've still got time to kill.

We spent Wednesday night anchored in Manatee Pocket (mile 988), right off the inlet, which has many boating facilities which serve the sports fishing community (the Atlantic here is sailfish territory) and other boaters. Manatee pocket lived up to its name, as we dinghied up to the end of the pocket and found 3 manatees hanging out. The water was murky, so all you could really see was huge nostrils poking up now and then and taking a breath.

Thursday we came up the St Lucie River, stopping at the town dock here in Stuart FLA, where we walked the small historic district and grabbed a slice of pizza for lunch. We then continued upriver to the first lock on the Okeechobee Canal. The idea was to go through the lock and anchor across from the park up there for a few nights in fresh water so as to kill off any nasty hull growth such as shipworm larvae. When I contacted the lock tender with my plan I was told I couldn't anchor there but would would have to take a slip at the park, which requires a reservation. So we turned Spray around and came back to Stuart, renting a mooring at the city marina, and here we still are, three nights later.

The issue of transient boaters anchoring in FLA has been contentious over the past few years. Some towns have tried to ban anchoring in 'their' waters, and have set up mooring fields where, for a relatively small fee, transients can stay, but they cannot anchor for free. The state of FLA fought this, arguing that these are state waters, and that towns have no authority over them. Within the last year the state won a court case on this so, just outside Stuart's mooring field, some boats are anchored, and legally so.

Here's how I compare the municipal mooring fields in Vero Beach and here in Stuart:
- Cost: V.B. = $14/night, Stuart = $10/night - Stuart wins
- Protection: V.B. much better protected, both from winds and boat wakes.
- Shore Facilities: Both are very good, with dinghy docks, laundry, hot showers, cruiser's lounge.
- Local Shopping: Advantage Stuart. Here its 3 blocks to a supermarket, and 3 blocks to the historic district, with shops and restaurants. But, V.B. has a free bus system that will take you to those things.
- Dog friendly: Stuart has a park very close, but V.B. has an official dog-park very close. Advantage V.B.
- Privacy: Stuart puts 1 boat on each mooring while V.B. will raft 2 or 3 boats/mooring if needed. That sounds rough but apparently it works OK. I can't really say as we didn't get rafted there (did my deodorant fail?).
Overall: Its a tie. Both are very good.

Let's talk about the weather. As you've no doubt seen in the news, its been COLD! We're coming on two straight weeks of nights in the 30's, and days in the 50's (there have been a couple of 70-degree days in there just to torture). Yesterday was especially nasty, with strong north winds, rain, and high temps in the low 40's. Today was cold and windy too, but at least sunny, which helps alot. Spray has a propane heater, which I've mostly been using to take the chill off in the morning, until the sun can do its thing. Yesterday the heater was used more. The predictions are for gradual improvement over the coming week. Let's hope so.

One thing Spray lacks is a generator, so at anchorage or a mooring we live off of ever-dwindling battery power, and 4 or 5 days is a practical limit. Then we need to cruise somewhere so the main diesel engine's alternator can recharge the batteries. If its nice tomorrow, we'll go somewhere, not sure where yet, otherwise for sure on Tuesday. Stay tuned.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Are we stuck in 'Velcro' Beach?

That's the dinghy dock at the Vero Beach City Marina (ICW mile 952), where we've been renting a mooring for the last few nights. Can you find Spray's dinghy? (hint: its the grey inflatable with the outboard motor)

After a very bouncy Friday night anchored off Serenity (yeah right!) Island, south of Melbourne, we cruised 26 miles downwind to arrive here mid-day Saturday. We stopped at the fuel dock to pump-out the waste holding tank (yum!) and were assigned mooring no. 57 of 57, way to the north end of the mooring field. Aside from the long dinghy ride to the dinghy dock, its a great location as we are in the lee of a big clump of mangrove (or whatever) and so its quite protected from the cold north winds we've been having.

Did I say cold? You've probably heard the news talking about this huge mass of arctic air causing record low temps across 2/3 of the country, with freezing temps extending way into FLA. It was 36 degrees this morning and will be even colder tomorrow morning. But its not so bad: This morning we ran the propane heater for 45 minutes which took the chill off until the sun could do its thing. It was wall-to-wall sun today and warmed to 58 or so, and Spray has large windows so gets a nice greenhouse thing going. I will say that I wouldn't trade my sleeping bag (nor the little 4-legged heater that goes in it) for a thousand bucks.

Vero Beach is warm in another way: the people. After we were settled in on Saturday I gave a call to Gene & Kathy Spinazola, longtime Castiners, fellow cruisers, and now snowbirds who own a nice winter home a few miles west of here. After Riggs and I did an exploratory walk to the beach and back, they drove over and picked us up, took us to Walmart/Sams Club to buy motor oil for Spray, then to their house for drinks, then back here for dinner at the Riverside Cafe, which is very nice and right next to the marina. It was great to see them and swap cruising stories. Many thanks Gene and Kathy.

But Vero's hospitality continued. Sunday was kind of overcast and we walked to a nearby dog park where Riggs had a great time socializing as only dogs can. We were back aboard Spray contemplating supper when the phone rings. Its a new voice to me. Some guy saying 'I can see your boat from my house'. It turns out to be Wayne Thomas. He and his wife Carol have a house right here on the ICW, facing the mooring field. They have a dock and a 48 foot yacht (m/v Fluke) and are friends of the Siegels, who had let them know Riggs & I are here. So anyway, Wayne invites us over to their boat for supper, and we dinghy on over. Riggs meets their cute dog Ursa (she's a schipperke - very sweet) and I meet Wayne and Carol and their cruising buddy Eddie Grandal and we have a great evening on their beautiful HEATED yacht.

I'm learning why Vero Beach is known among cruisers as Velcro Beach, you tend to want to stick around. What with the cold nights, and high winds predicted for tomorrow, we're going to extend our stay until at least Wednesday. So stay tuned.

Oh, that's Riggs on the Atlantic shown below. He loves the beach!


Friday, January 1, 2010

Florida's Space Coast


Happy New Year everyone!

Titusville (ICW mile 878) on Wednesday, Cocoa (mile 898) on Thursday, and today just south of Melbourne FLA (near mile 925). These towns are all in the Cape Canaveral area, and the Nasa facilities are hard to miss. That's the VAB above, which I think is the worlds largest volume building.

These towns are all on the Indian River, which here is wide and shallow and has nearly no tides nor tidal currents. We visited the nice downtown areas of Titusville and Cocoa, and enjoyed the waterfront New Years Eve celebration in Cocoa (which included an ice skating rink!). Plus on Wed. and Thurs. we had great weather, with temps in the 70's.

That changed today as a cold front came through, bringing rain and wind and cooler temps. Tonight we are at an anchorage off of Rock Point called Serenity Island, and the cruising guides say its a great fair-weather anchorage. But with the high winds were having its pretty exposed, and we're in for a rockin' night.

Tomorrow we will reach Vero Beach (mile 952), which some cruisers call 'Velcro Beach' since its so welcoming that boaters tend to stick around for awhile. We'll stay at least 2 nights, and visit with Castine friends Gene & Kathy Spinazola.