Sunday, November 22, 2009

No anchor needed in NC?


We've been in NC since Thursday afternoon and have yet to use our anchor, nor have we had to pay for marina space. This state (at least this part of it) really welcomes cruisers.

Thursday we had a great cruise down the Dismal Swamp Canal, which is narrow (trees hang over on both sides), and perfectly straight for maybe 12 miles, bends left by 30 degrees and is then straight for another 8 miles. Just after the bend we crossed from VA into NC and shortly tied to a bulkhead at the Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center, just in time for lunch. They allow free overnight tie-up for as many boats as will fit. That night there were 4 sailboats and us. We had the afternoon to kill, so we crossed the canal on a unique floating drawbridge and walked some in the Dismal Swamp. Very beautiful but apparently loaded with ticks in summer. Dave and Riggs then rested on Spray while I checked out a bicycle from the visitors center (free of course so I didn't complain that it was a womans bike). They have a paved bike path that follows the canal for 3 miles so I rode down and back.

Friday we filled Spray's water tank, had a nice breakfast, played chuck-it with Riggs, and left at 9:45 in hopes to reach the southern lock to exit the canal at the 11:00 lock-through . We had a 1+ knot following current so we occasionally just drifted so as to not arrive too early. After the lock-through (Riggs had a lock-side romance with a little poodle - ooh la la!) we continued through another straight section (Turner's Cut) and then joined the Pasquotank River. This section meandered through cypress swamp and was just gorgeous. Eventually we reached Elizabeth City, which many cruisers call the friendliest town on the ICW (we can't argue it) and pulled into one of their 14 free slips at about 2 pm.

To learn how Elizabeth City (pop ~ 20,000) became the 'Harbor of Hospitality' (see photo above) read this:

Sure enough, after some exploration around downtown we attended the wine & cheese cruisers reception complete with a booster spiel by the Mayor. I was a little surprised when the Mayor began by giving a special welcome to Spray and its first mate Riggs. It turns out that when we were holed up in Atlantic City NJ for 4 days the Mayor was on another boat at the same anchorage and had dinghied by for some chat and as usual Riggs made an impression.

E.C. could have been the model for Mayberry. I kept looking for Sheriff Andy Taylor. We stayed for two nights and did our part to reward their welcome by eating in 4 restaurants, buying groceries, and touring their superb 'Museum of the Abemarle'. They provide free WiFi to the boat slips and have a webcam
aimed at the boats so Dave and I had silly fun waving at our spouses while they got on- line and watched us.

We pulled out of our slip at dawn today and continued down the Pasquotank, which is quite wide below E.C., to reach huge Abemarle Sound, a notoriously rough body of water. The ICW cuts south across the sound, but we didn't. Back when we were at the Dismal Swamp Canal Visitors Center, they gave us a great map of the eastern half of NC, which has an incredible number of waterways. We both thought it would be a neat area to explore so as we entered Abemarle Sound we hung a hard right turn and proceeded west for 40 miles to arrive in Edentown NC after 7 hrs total travel time today (we call this a long day). Some call Edentown the prettiest town in the South. They too have free docking for cruisers, and since they are off the ICW and its post-season we are the only visiting boat here. They also have HOT SHOWERS for our use. The town itself reminds me somewhat of Castine, very historic with beautiful old homes and a great waterfront although they do have more downtown business and restaurants.

Its Sunday so the town is quiet. Tomorrow they are predicting rain and wind so we might stay put here. If we do move it will probably be to nearby Columbia NC where they have .... free docking (of course). We'll keep ya posted.

2 comments:

  1. Imagine that...hospitality...free docking...few rules...and you go and spend money in the town. There are probably some other towns that could learn a lesson or two from that.

    You know, if I anchored in Smith's Cove, I wouldn't be allowed to bring my dingy into the Castine town dinghy dock because of their foolish regulations. Of course, no where else along the east coast have I had a problem.

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  2. You made mention that the town reminded you of Mayberry. On your return trip north, try to stop in Manteo, NC, just a short jog off the ICW at the north end of the Alligator River. Another wonderful small town like Mayberry, and is actually the home of Andy Griffith.

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